Cambodia

We loved Cambodia. Please visit it soon. If you're planning to go to Thailand, consider Cambodia instead. Here are some ways to make the most of it, and some hints on avoiding the worst...

Be gentle with Cambodians. Up to a quarter of them were murdered only 30 years ago under a horribly cruel communist experiment led by Salath Sar (otherwise known as Pol Pot), and they are still shell-shocked about it. We crossed the border with our hardnut attitudes that had developed through dealings with aggressive Vietnamese touts, but the snappy stuff felt all wrong in Cambodia, where people are still grieving for their lost boys and girls.

Phnom Penh
1. The best overview of what happened when the Khmer Rouge took over is at the Killing Fields. Stop at Tuol Sleng concentration camp on the way back (a former primary school). Warning: this is heavy duty, and you will need a refreshment after at the Bodhi Tree guesthouse and cafe, just outside.
2. Get back into holiday mode. Go to the Elephant Bar at Raffles hotel for happy hour 4-8pm. The cocktails are so cheap they are practically free and you won't get anything better this side of the Sanderson.
3. Buy 100 mp3 albums for 35 quid at the Boom Boom Room by the lake. That's 764 quid cheaper than buying them on iTunes, which will cover your flights and accomodation.
4. Do your shopping on street 178 and 243, they've got all the best clothes, most delicious food, wine bars and gifts for your crowd back home.

Tuol Sleng: http://www.cbc.ca/sunday/cambodia/
Elephant Bar: www.raffles.com and select phnom penh 'Hotel Le Royal'
The Boom Boom Room: N° 1A Street 93 Boeung Kak Lake, Phnom Penh 12201, Cambodia. Mobile Phone 012 709 096

Sihanoukville
Stay at one of the bungalows on Serendipity Beach (at the far end of Occheutal). If possible, don't stay at Cloud 9 because despite their hopeful name, they'll just bring you down. The place next door to them is brand new, really friendly and has a Greek Restaurant, of all things.


Siam Reap / Angkor Wat
1. Get 3 day pass for Angkor Wat, 40US$. Get a tuk-tuk driver for the day for 10US$.
2. Stay at FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club), it's high tech, wireless, great food, cool pool.
The one in Hong Kong costs 70quid a month to be a member, but this one is freeeeeee. http://www.fcccambodia.com/weekenders/
3. Follow the happy hours. We had it all worked out like so...
-4pm Elephant Bar, Raffles Hotel
-5-7pm FCC Bar and Restaurant
-6-9pm Angkor What? Bar
-9-11pm The Victoria Hotel Cocktail Bar (they've got baby crocodiles in the foyer)

Bokor
Not somewhere we visited, but the FCC there sounds worth a whirl, too.

Other Advice:
1. Fly everywhere. Buses are cheap but nobody wants to deal with these antiques. On one, the seat containing a heavy Bavarian collapsed onto me and couldn't be fixed. Every time we came to an incline, the entire bus had to disembark and push. Seemingly easy, but not so when all the luggage is stored in the aisle, you're penned in and it's over 40degrees.
2. Avoid land border crossings. See http://nikimcmorrough.blogspot.com/2005/04/vietnam-break-for-border.html for persuasion.